Monday, January 3, 2011

Fixing Jammed Transmission Shifting Handle

The main reason I had to take the PowerKing completely apart was because while pushing snow last year my transmission would not shift out of gear.  This was not good because I had just pushed a huge pile of snow across the highway that I live on into a huge ditch.  Well, now here I was stuck in the middle of the highway and I could only drive forward with a deep ditch in front of me.  I had to turn the engine off and run to get my truck to pull it out of the highway.  Luckily the roads were very bad and only a couple of cars had to stop while I was trying to chain it up to my truck. 
This is the process of fixing the front transmission.  I have already done this to the back transmission. Which took forever because I had never disassembled the shifting assembly before


Remove the assembly from the gear casing.


I mounted mine in a vise so that I could hammer and work on it.


This is with the transmission in the neutral position and the handle toward 1 and 2


This is neutral in the center.


These plugs simply push out with the guide rod when you gently tap them out.


Loosen the set screw.  There is a compression spring and a ball behind this screw.  There is another ball on the other side and an oblonged ball in the center.  Be sure to have all of these balls and springs in place before re assembly. 
They can make there way out and get lost if you are not careful.


Gently tap the first shifter and rod this direction first.  This makes room for the roll pin to be removed.


Punch out roll pin.


Make sure that the pin can go into deep part of casting.


Use punch or long bolt to tap the rod completely out the opposite end of assembly.


Do the same thing to the next shifter assembly.


Using a flat screwdriver remove shifter capture spring.


Push shifter out this direction.


Notice the flat spots worn on side of disc.  This is why the shifter was jammed.  It would not roll up the side of the shifter assembly.  It was simply Jammed in place.


These flat spots will need to be welded up and ground back to round.


Using a hard rod weld up flat spots. It is important to build enough weld so that the disc can be ground to a round flat disc with fairly square edges.


This is what mine looked like after welding.  Lots of build up.  I used many light layers of weld with a 7018 arc rod.


Using a grinder, I ground it down to close to size.


I used the lever and slot that it needed to fit to make the final adjustments.


I kept taking a little more off until it would just fit. 


I then dressed it with a fine file to "polish" all the surfaces so that it would fit properly and slide like it is suppose to.


Just like new again.  Now to reassemble and see how well it works.  It works beautifully.  I don't ever remember it shifting so well in all of my life.  It should last another 33 years. 


Now I need to finish removing the inner bearing race from the shaft assembly from the front assembly and pick up some new bearings to replace them.  In the mean time I plan on trying to straighten the hood dents out and sand it to be ready for new paint.  I also will do this on the transmission and the covers and rear fenders.

8 comments:

  1. Great set of instructions, I will be doing this before long.
    Frank

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  2. good info on repairing transmission. my question is what is the easiest way to get the cover off. i have a 1618 hydraulic.

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  3. Good pics. I did the same rebuild on a t92 transmission about 6 months ago. This website lists the dimensions. http://www.speedextractors.com/web/index_files/t92.htm

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  4. Got a 69 model PK with same problem. Haven't tore it down yet. Good info.

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  5. what would make the gears to rake hard to get into gear

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  6. Great info on t92 trans.

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  7. Whoever owned the tractor before I got it, broke the gearshift off at about 3 inches above the pivot point. Valuable info Thank you.

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  8. This post has saved me much time and money. Thanks very much. Getting mine welded and I will reshape it.

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